The first documented surfing happened in Tahiti, when Cpt. James Cook, on his maiden voyage , sailed in on the HMS Endeavour. "We stood admiring this very wonderful scene for full half an hour, in which time no one of the actors attempted to come ashore but all seemed most highly entertained with their strange diversion."-- 2nd LT Joseph Banks.
We know that surfing came from an abundance in life, because people like 2nd LT Banks, Mark Twain and Jack London wrote about and recorded what they saw. About how the abundance of the land and the ocean had allowed the Hawaiians the time to discover "wave slipping". As the rest of the world was living in perpetual war and destruction, the Polynesians were surfers, catching waves and living in the Aloha Spirit.
I created Liquid Sessions because I believe surfing is not a sport but a way of life. Its a lifestyle centered on being outside in nature living in Aloha, the presence of divine breath and the connection of land, water and people. Through the Aloha Spirit we find purpose and with purpose we find dedication. Through dedication the cosmos sing and heaven is made on earth. All great things are made through dedication like art, music, architecture, love, life and SURF.
To truly know the ocean, the surf break, its not enough to watch a Youtube Video and rent a long board. Watching, studying, paddling, duck diving and surfing the waves, living it sunup to sun down, that's how you truly know.
Donovan is a professional educator and accomplished “waterman” with a lifetime of experience in the outdoors. He has combined his years of training, teaching, and experience to create the Liquid Sessions surf curriculum. Experience and training prior to developing Liquid Sessions includes:
Surfing Pavones, Costa Rica